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Range Rover pages



Rear Hubs

I had an MOT fail, because of oil contamination of the left rear brake disc. This results from a hub oil seal failure, most commonly due to a blocked axle breather. In my case, the breather was OK.

Always read the proper Land Rover workshop manual which applies to your vehicle. Hubs and brakes are safety-critical components.

Drain the axle oil, release the brake pipe clips from the fittings on the axle casing

Engage low-ratio first gear and lock the centre diff. Chock the wheels which are not to be jacked. Then jack and support the vehicle on axle stands.
NB the jacking points are the axle casing outboard of radius arm fittings

I found it helpful to slacken the caliper bolts before jacking the vehicle.
NB on pre-October 1984 vehicles, the right rear shock absorber is mounted behind the axle and needs to be removed to get at the caliper bolts.

Remove the brake pads

Undo the caliper bolts - it's easier to slacken them before jacking - and use cable ties to suspend the caliper from the road spring

Place a container under the hub to catch the inevitable oil spill

Remove the 5 bolts fixing the drive shaft to the hub and remove the drive shaft

Knock up the lock washer on the hub lock nut

This is the LR special tools box spanner for undoing the hub nut

You can see that it's impossible to use a torque wrench with this spanner when refitting the hub - no torque setting is specified in my vehicle's manual

Remove the hub and clean the stub axle tube

You can see the oil which has leaked onto the the seal face and the disc. Clean the disc with brake cleaner and remove the hub seal

It's a good time to clean the brake caliper as well

It's relatively easy to renew the brake discs too, if they're worn, by undoing the five bolts which fix them to the hub (check the manual for refitting instructions)

On my vehicle, the hubs have 12mm (part no: RTC3511) double lip oil seals. You will need LR special tool LRT-54-501 to insert the seal to the correct depth without damaging the seal lips.

Older vehicles have 8mm single lip seals, which are fitted differently. Newer vehicles have inner and outer seals
(check the manual for your vehicle)

The seal is tapped in with the seating tool - don't forget to make sure that the inner bearing race goes in first!

Pack the bearing with 4-5 fluid ounces of grease (see the manual for recommended lubricants) before fitting to the stub axle tube

Fit the outer bearing race, the washer, the inner hub nut, a new lock washer and the outer locking hub nut

On my vehicle the end float needs to be checked with a dial test instrument before and after locking

Procedures vary according to the age of the vehicle (check the manual for your vehicle)

This 52mm (1¼" Whit) ½" drive socket is made by Franklins (TA952) and is available from Dingocroft

There is no listed torque setting for the lock nuts on my vehicle's hubs, as you can't set the torque with the LR tool

When you're happy that the end float is correct and the hub nuts are locked, knock down one segment of the locking washer onto the inner hub nut and one onto the outer lock nut

Replace the drive shaft, with a new paper gasket and torque the 5 bolts to the correct setting
(check the manual for your vehicle)

In this vehicle, there is no additional oil seal in the stub axle tube, as is fitted to later models

Refit the caliper, with new brake pads, spring clips and pins (Apec kits)
Don't forget to renew the pads on the opposite side as well

Fit the road wheel and torque the wheel nuts

Front Hubs

I had a leak from one of the front hub seals the following year, just after a clean pass at the MOT. The procedure for replacing the front hub seal on my 1985 RRC is very similar, but always check the manual for your vehicle.

The brake pipes are secured to a plate which mounts onto the top swivel hub bearing and this needs to be released in order to swing the brake caliper out of the way without bending the metal pipes. The two bolts are secured with a locking plate (part number 90576928) which has to be knocked down before you can get a socket onto the bolts. It needs to be renewed, as it gets ragged in the process.

It's helpful to bend up a couple of corners of the new locking tab with a pair of pliers before fitting, so that you've got something for the drift to get a purchase on when knocking the tab up after torquing the bolts.

The short front drive shaft comes out in exactly the same way as the long rear half-shaft.