in your steering column? To save you finding out the hard way,
I can tell you.
The workshop manual clearly points out that the
steering column is fitted with shear pins. They are designed to
break in the event of a frontal collision, allowing the steering
column to telescope and reduce the risk of chest injury. The manual
advises that shock should not be imparted to the column during
workshop repairs, so as not to break the shear pins.
For this reason, don't remove the steering
wheel with a hammer, it is essential
to use a puller. You can make one with a piece of 1" x 1/8"
steel strip, into which three holes are drilled. The outer two
allow M6 bolts to be inserted into the threaded holes in the steering
wheel boss. The centre hole is tapped so that a bolt can be screwed
in to extract the steering wheel, which fits onto splines and
As the result of a workshop accident (trying to
remove the pinch clamp at the other end of the column, which needs
to be opened up with a screwdriver or cold chisel) I accidentally
broke the shear pins. What I found inside didn't exactly correspond
with the information in my copy of the genuine workshop and parts
manuals (as far as the upper bearing is concerned), so I suspect
that my car had a "transitional model" column:
The bottom end of the steering
shaft is a tube, with flattened sides at the top. There are two
holes on each flattened face. At the bottom end is a spring-loaded
washer with a sealed single use plastic screw adjuster, which
sets the pre-load on the bottom bearing.
The upper (steering wheel) end
of the shaft is a flattened rod, which fits inside the lower tubular
section. It bears two recessed areas. I believe that, during manufacture,
nylon is injected into the holes in the bottom tubular section.
This fills the recesses and leaves projections into the four holes
in the bottom tube. In the picture below, you can just see where
the projecting pins have sheared off.
It is these pins which shear off
in the event of an impact to the column, either in the workshop,
or in a road traffic accident. It is intended that the column
will then telescope, so as to reduce the risk of chest injury
to the driver. The outer column tube is of a lattice construction,
so that it will telescope as well.
According to my workshop manual,
you can change the upper (steering wheel) end bearing in the column
tube, but my column had a completely different top bearing, which
didn't look as though it could be replaced.
The workshop manual clearly states
that the column tube, bottom bearing and steering shaft assembly
is not permitted to be overhauled and must be
replaced as a complete unit.
The good news is that my dealer
discovered that Land Rover had 83 steering columns in stock. The
bad news is that they cost £255.97 +VAT each!
steering box, drop arm and drag link
My power steering box developed a leak at the
bottom seal, where the sector arm emerges and the drop arm is
attached. I discovered a few things about PAS boxes as I worked
through its replacement.
1) PAS boxes come in 3-bolt (imperial thread hose
connection) or 4-bolt (metric hose thread connection) types. They
have different ratios. My original one was a 3-bolt type.
2) Everyone I have spoken
to told me not to have the box reconditioned, but rather buy a
new replacement. Their experience seems to be that recon PAS boxes
always leak fairly soon, even though guaranteed.
3) It is possible to obtain a hybrid 4-bolt box
with imperial hose connections from Adwest Engineering
and that's what I've used.
When the ball joint in the standard pattern drop arm needs
replacing, it necessitates some serious effort to detach
the drop arm from the PAS box as well as to extract and
refit the ball joint.
Later models of the Range Rover Classic and Discovery were
fitted with a different pattern of drop arm, which doesn't
have the ball joint.
This is fitted in conjunction
with the later pattern (longer) drag link, which has one right-hand
and one left-hand thread track-rod end. Later replacement of the
track rod ends is very much easier than changing the earlier type
ball joint in the drop arm.
These track-rod ends even have
I bet you didn't know ...
Having followed the instructions in the manual
for centering the steering setup, I was perplexed to find that
there are 3 turns of the steering wheel to the left and only
2 turns to the right.
I have since learned from Paul Atkinson
that this is a design feature, because a RHD vehicle turns left
more often than right. LHD steering boxes are made the opposite